India is so many things that I've come to love….
Traffic:
Lines on the road are not really relevant (traffic lights as well) and one way roads are not always that way. Size and brand of car dominate but after that the hierarchy is mostly by size. So pedestrians are at the bottom of the barrel. However, driving, walking and biking are cooperative activities and drivers are very aware of all the moving 'parts' around them. Cars and rickshaws constantly honk their horns to warn you to move, not out of anger.
Crossing the street is best done holding hands with as many sets of eyes as possible. Walking on the street is safer than the sidewalk as these are invariably under construction or blocked by vendors or structures.
Trains are the most dangerous way to travel but if you don't hang out the doors and use the 'women only' carriages they are the most efficient.
People (best part of India):
The school and paper supply store owner, after meeting me twice, gave me store credit for expensive printer cartridges.
The roadside tailor neatly sewed up the hole in my pants (from jumping onto an elephant) and had to be convinced to take 35cents for his trouble.
The hotel owner in Kerala only had one room for the four of us so he simply added a small mattress on the floor and a third pillow to the double bed
The butcher once charged after me into the grocery store to ensure that I didn't forget to buy cane sugar (our chef had called and told him to remind us).
The second generation grocery store owners personally filled every order and would deliver a single egg to our door if we forgot it.
Boys of all ages play cricket in every alley or dirt patch and were thrilled to share their bats with us or show off their 'helicopter swings' (just about broke my nose again)
The beautiful sari clad women will break into brilliant smiles if you smile at them… but only if you nod before smiling
On the rough side:
The smog and cooking fire smoke are so thick in December that you can't see across the bay. The newspaper carries daily stories of women being abused in one way or another. The slipshod wiring makes for entertaining photos but is also a serious life hazard.
The poor constantly implore at your windows and run barefoot through the myriad of slums.
Most importantly, however, always remember to pray to Ganesh first!
I'm drinking a toast to the ants in our kitchen with Oban scotch tonight . India is a creative country and since I can't seem to get rid of the critters whiskey seems like a nice way to live with them. Who knows, they may be reincarnations of someone I knew.
